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Thursday, August 7, 2014

PU Coated Nylon Sewing Tips - Part 1: The Fabric

I have recently worked with polyurethane coated 100% nylon or "stretch taffeta" as a lining for a dress (read about it here) and faced many a stumbling snafu.  Granted I did not exactly utilized this fabric as it was designed for but that is more of a learning curve for me than anything else.  I hope you find these postings useful.


What Is "Stretch Taffeta" With A PU Coating?


I am glad you asked!  Stretch taffeta with a PU coating is not the stretch taffeta you find in the wedding/special occasion fabric section of your local fabric store.  It is a two-way, horizontal stretch fabric consisting of 100% nylon with a special coating on the wrong side.  That coating is a polyurethane (PU) which makes the material water resistant whilst still being flexible and light weight.  The "right side" of the stretch taffeta is not coated and retains the shiny nylon look.  This distinct characteristic of the fabric, plus it's light weight, drapability and wringle-free-ness (if that is even a word), make it an ideal choice for outdoor active wear.



Wrong side, PU coating on the left; right side, 100% shiny nylon on the right.

What "Stretch Taffeta" With A PU Coating Is NOT!

This particular stretch taffeta is NOT polyurethane laminate or PUL.  PUL looks and acts more like vinyl fabric, albeit a bit more flexible as it is made with 100% polyester knit fabric.  It is used by home sewers primarily for homemade diapers and reusable lunch baggies.


If you are looking for information on how to work with PUL, try:

Celtic Cloths' Description of PUL and
Sew4Home's Guide to Sewing with PUL


Folding chair from viralfave.com
Stretch taffeta is also NOT the same as water-resistant taffeta, a popular fabric in the late 1980s (?) for light-weight rain jackets.  These days polyester taffeta that has some water-resistance is found in linings of high end sleeping bags.  There is a similar feel of this type of fabric to the PU coated stretch taffeta but you will find that water-resistant taffeta, whether of nylon or polyester material, is generally stiffer and can make a bit of a crunching sound.


Even the foldable, outdoor chairs are made of polyethylene foam padding and not polyurethane.


Example of ripstop nylon fabric
Nor is it ripstop with a PU coating despite both being made of 100% nylon.  Ripstop is a special weave of nylon that stops rips from spreading.  This type of fabric is utilized by outdoor enthusiasts who like making their own gear, being not limited to tents, packs and clothing.  This is where all the non-tailor sewing men hang out...and what I have been missing out on!


Men Sewing in Antarctica Post

How To Treat The Fabric


According to the bolt, PU coated 100% nylon can be: machine washed, gentle cycle, cold water with nonchlorine bleach.  Reshape, lay flat to dry, do not iron.  What they do not say, and which is VERY important, is that "stretch taffeta" is NOT color resistant.  Most white or light colored fabric should be washed separately, else risk getting slightly grey clothing.



Continue this series with:


PU Coated Nylon Sewing Tips - Part 2: The Tools


PU Coated Nylon Sewing Tips - Part 3: The Method



See anything in error?  Know of a better method or tip?  Post a comment below or send me an email.  Everything I know about PU coated stretch taffeta I have learned by doing and am in NO way an expert.


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