So you are ready to sew your PU coated 100% nylon, aka stretch taffeta! Well let's get you started.
Step 1: start with a clean machine.
I cannot emphasis this enough and really should be done after every sewing project.
Step 2: do trial runs with scrap fabric.
Trust me on this one; whatever stitch method you think you might want to use, try it out on pieces you don't care about before using the fabric you paid good money for! This will get you use to the fabric and hopefully get out all the kinks ahead of time.
Step 3: set the dials to sew!
For this fabric, on a regular sewing machine you will want a longer stitch length, 3-3.5 mm, and decreased tension (see photo in Step 4). Were the fabric to be coated and not stretchable, you would want to increase the thread tension. Play around with the tension to find the best results for your machine and fabric stretch. The same should be done with a serger.
Step 4: if you don't have a serger...
That's okay! According to Ebay's Guide to Sewing Water Repellent or Waterproof Fabrics, "Most coated fabrics will not fray and do not require serging, pinking or finishing. Lighter nylons and uncoated fabrics will however fray quite easily and should be finished." The text does not say explicitly how the fabric should be finished.
If you do not want all your seams to be serged or you have seams that need to retain their stretch-ability, I recommend using a vari-overlock seam. This type of seam will allow the fabric to stretch whilst not breaking the thread or stitches. Consult your machine manual to obtain the correct setting.
Having not discovered the interfacing/tissue paper tool until after I was finished, I created a majority of my seam using the vari-overlock seam and did not notice any fraying after the wash. ...Though it may have contributed to some of my lighter garments turning a bit grey.
Here is a side-by-side comparison of serged PU coated nylon fabric with and without stabilizer. The hot pink tissue paper from Victoria Secret works in a pinch, though may not be the color you want left as part of your garment. With any luck, it should come out in the wash.
Without any kind of stabilizer, the serger has difficult time maintaining the seam, often bunching up the fabric between the needles and sometimes causing the needle thread to break. Using three threads without stabilizer fared little better.
Step 6: finish project and clean machine!
Hopefully your project has gone well with no major difficulties and this mini-series has been useful.
See anything in error? Know of a better method or tip? Post a comment below or send me an email. Everything I know about PU coated stretch taffeta I have learned by doing and am in NO way an expert.
Step 1: start with a clean machine.
I cannot emphasis this enough and really should be done after every sewing project.
Step 2: do trial runs with scrap fabric.
Trust me on this one; whatever stitch method you think you might want to use, try it out on pieces you don't care about before using the fabric you paid good money for! This will get you use to the fabric and hopefully get out all the kinks ahead of time.
Step 3: set the dials to sew!
Step 4: if you don't have a serger...
That's okay! According to Ebay's Guide to Sewing Water Repellent or Waterproof Fabrics, "Most coated fabrics will not fray and do not require serging, pinking or finishing. Lighter nylons and uncoated fabrics will however fray quite easily and should be finished." The text does not say explicitly how the fabric should be finished.
If you do not want all your seams to be serged or you have seams that need to retain their stretch-ability, I recommend using a vari-overlock seam. This type of seam will allow the fabric to stretch whilst not breaking the thread or stitches. Consult your machine manual to obtain the correct setting.
 |
| Left: Straight stitches from length 4, 3.5 and 3 mm; Right: Vari-overlock seam with stitch lengths 3, 3.5 and 4 mm. |
Step 5: serging your garment.
As with regular sewing, do a test run to determine the necessary tension but keep the stitch length on the longer side.
Without any kind of stabilizer, the serger has difficult time maintaining the seam, often bunching up the fabric between the needles and sometimes causing the needle thread to break. Using three threads without stabilizer fared little better.
 |
| Tissue paper stabilizer vs non-stabilized serger seams. |
Because the needles puncture booth the fabric and the tissue paper when serging, the tissue paper easily gives way from the seam without hassle.
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| This is what you are left with after removing the tissue paper. |
Hopefully your project has gone well with no major difficulties and this mini-series has been useful.
Review this series with:
See anything in error? Know of a better method or tip? Post a comment below or send me an email. Everything I know about PU coated stretch taffeta I have learned by doing and am in NO way an expert.
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